Brayton Barff Through the Seasons.
Set in the Vale of York, South West of the market town of Selby and between the villages of Thorpe Willoughby and Brayton, lies Brayton Barff, a sandstone Hill approximately one hundred and fifty feet in height which was formed by glacial movement during the last Ice Age. It is a significant landmark in an otherwise flat landscape.
Today the site is primarily owned by Yorkshire Water with Selby District Council owning a small patch of the land adjacent to the A63 Selby bypass. A large underground reservoir occupies the centre of the site which delivers water to around 4.7 million customers throughout Yorkshire.
Within the Barff woodland over 40% of the trees are Sessile Oak which are generally found in semi natural woodlands in the north of the country. These trees are so called because its acorns are not held on stalks, like those of the English Oak (Pedunculate), but attached directly to the outer twigs. There are also several English Oak trees as well as some cross-hybrid oaks. These trees are known to support many species of flora and fauna, invertebrates, mosses, lichen and fungi.
During the Victorian times it is thought that the shipbuilders on the east coast would come over to the Barff for selected cuts of timber to build their sea going vessels.
The Barff also has a variety of other trees including Silver Birch, Beech, Sycamore, Holly, Rowan, Scots Pine, Alder, Hawthorne and European Larch. There are also several Yew, Willow, Hazel, Horse Chestnut and Wych Elm. As with similar woodlands there are a variety of bushes, including Honeysuckle, Elderberry, Gorse, Broom and Buddleia.
The history of Brayton Barff is quite vague, apparently during 1803 a beacon was lit on the Barff when the country was threatened with an invasion by Napoleon. In May 1935, to celebrate King George V's Silver Jubilee, a Bonfire was lit on the Barff as part of the celebrations.
Early issues of Ordnance Survey Maps dated 1903 clearly show a rifle range on the Barff, extending out to Mill Lane. During the Second World War 1939-1945 a Prisoner of War Camp was built on the site. Today, nothing is left of these buildings less some areas to the South and West of the Barff where some of the brick foundations may be seen.
Between 2001 – 2004 the A63 Selby bypass, 10km twin lane single carriageway was constructed which severed the South West corner of the Barff, adjacent to Selby Golf Course and resulted in a slight redesign of several holes on the golf course. Wooden fencing was erected as a result of this new road running alongside of the Barff and a footbridge constructed over the ‘new road’ following the line of the Bridal way which extends from Mill Lane. Around 2005/2006 a definite 2metre wide limestone aggregate footpath was laid forming a circular path around the outer edges of the woodland. This footpath is approximately 1.2 miles in length and takes about 30 minutes to circumnavigate at a leisurely pace.
In 2012 the Barff was declared an Ancient Oak Woodland and as such throughout 2012 and 2013 significant work had been carried out by the relevant agencies to cut and remove large swathes of non-native trees, creating at that time huge scars on the landscape. Some three years later the planting of the native trees have become well established and are flourishing. Ongoing maintenance work on the footpath around the bottom of the Barff was completed during the Summer of 2016.
A second phase of woodland maintenance commenced during the Autumn of 2019 with the removal of many old and diseased trees and the cutting back of the Gorse and Broom bushes, especially adjacent to the ‘bypass trail’, this work continued through till March 2020 with re planting continuing into April 2020.
Brayton Barff is a popular site for walkers and bird watchers alike and a path circling the outer perimeter of the Barff makes a pleasant thirty minute walk, giving views looking over towards Selby and the village of Brayton as well as the power stations of Drax and Eggborough..jpg)
For the early risers it is a great place to see some stunning sunrises over the villages of Brayton looking towards Drax Power Station, the same with the Sunsets looking over towards Eggborough and Monk Fryston.
The Barff changes with the Seasons and every visit can reveal something new, the woodland is a haven for wildlife. Records show that since 1982 one hundred and twelve species of bird have been seen in the woodland and at least 40 of those have bred here, including Tawny Owl, Buzzard, Green Woodpecker, Spotted Flycatcher, Goldcrest and Nuthatch to name just a few. On average over 70 species of bird are recorded each year. Further details of the bird life on the Barff can be found on the Brayton Barff Group Facebook page, especially the posts from Derek Cooper. Today ‘The Friends of Brayton Barff group’ led by Derek and a small team of volunteers help keep and maintain the cleanliness of the site as well as recording the wildlife and bird sightings.
The Barff is also home to fifteen different species of mammals, including Muntjac Deer, Pipistrelle Bat, Fox, and Field Vole.
Over eighty species of plant and wildflowers have been recorded, included Bee Orchid, Northern Marsh Orchid, Wood Anemone, Marsh Ragwort, Bluebell, White Bluebell, Bittersweet and Purple and White Foxgloves. Over twenty species of Butterfly have been recorded, including Marbled White, Brown Angus, Speckled Wood, Comma and Brimstone.
During the Autumnal months fungi thrives in this woodland environment, species including Fly Agaric, Beefsteak Tree Fungi, Chicken of the Wood, Sulphur Tufts, Stinkhorn, Ink cap, Puffballs and Hoof Bracket are just some of the many varieties that can be found here.
Click on the galleries shown below to expand the albums.
Wednesday 31st December 2025
It has been a cold, damp, and wet start to December on the Barff, with heavy rain showers on and off most days and temperatures struggling to reach double figures. Strong westerly winds blowing at 25mph accompanied by heavy rain showers brought an evening of unsettled weather and power cuts in the village on the first Sunday of the month.
Despite the weather, bird song has been bright and chirpy for most of the time though during the heavy rain the birds do tend to quieten down and seek the protection of the trees and undergrowth. Several Skeins of Geese have flown over the woodland during the beginning of December heading to the reserves of RSPB Fairburn Ings and St Aidens. It has been good to hear the Mistle Thrush and Song Thrush too, there has been a glut of fruit this year so there is much for them to eat. Grey Squirrels have been far more active, having watched them every day playing on the woodland floor and chasing through the tree canopy. Despite the cooler and wetter weather fungi has continued to develop, Hairy Curtain Crust especially has been covering many of the cut and rotten logs laying alongside the perimeter footpath, with clear circular patterns of fungi forming on the stump ends.
Storm Bram hit our part of the County on Tuesday 9th December with a ‘yellow’ weather warning issued for Strong winds and heavy rain, fortunately we escaped quite lightly with Southerly winds just reaching 25mph at one stage during the day though the rain was quite persistent and with the ground already waterlogged the tracks around the Barff were very muddy and slippery.
It was good to see that ‘Yorkshire Water authority’ has finally lifted the ‘Hosepipe Ban’ and we are no longer categorised as being in a ‘Drought situation’, due to the above average rainfall we have endured over the past ten weeks. The hosepipe ban was introduced back in July some five months ago after our reservoir capacity dropped to just 30% following the driest spring on record. Today the reservoir level has risen to just over 90% capacity and will no doubt rise higher once all the current standing water has drained away.
The rain in the woodland continued throughout the second and third weeks of December, making the ground very wet and waterlogged, It has not been uncommon for North Yorkshire to have several days when we had over 20mm of rain fall in a twenty four hour period which has resulted in the River Ouse flooding parts of York and the River Derwent bursting its banks and covering the Bubwith wetlands, where floodwater has covered the ground for most of December, creating a huge lake covering several hundreds of acres of farmland. One of the few benefits of this has been the increased numbers of birdlife to the area.
Road noise from the Selby bypass (A63) increases with all the rain we have had recently. Birdsong was slightly subdued with the wet weather though Mistle Thrush and the Song Thrush remained quite vocal; they still have lots of berries to finish off before they leave the area. Robin, Wren, Great Tit, Blue Tits and Long Tailed Tits are still active and can be seen and heard most days. On a brighter note, it has been good to see the Gorse bushes coming into flower adding a bit of colour to the woodland and Elderberry bushes are beginning to come into bud.
As I make my way around our ancient woodland with Meg and Gracie, I often stop to admire the sheer beauty and size of the Oak trees which lie within the perimeter of the Barff, and as winter approaches I can have a closer look at these beautiful trees. It is known that Oak trees can live between 600 years to over 1,000 years. Several of our Oak trees on the Barff have been classed as ‘ancient trees’ which means they are over 400 years old, others not so old, typically ‘veteran oak trees’ are between 150 years to 300 years old and ‘notable oaks’ are about 150 years to 200 years old. To put that into some form of perspective for example, when our ‘ancient oaks’ were seedlings around the year 1625, King Charles I would have been on the throne, likewise with the ‘veteran trees’, King George I was on the throne and Castle Howard had not yet been built, and finally when our ‘notable oaks’ were just seedlings King George IV was ruling the country! Our Oak trees are not only crucial for wildlife but they also play a significant role in maintaining a healthy ecosystem on the Barff. They provide shelter, food, and are a breeding ground for numerous species, making them essential for the overall health of the woodland. Their longevity and ability to support such a wide array of species highlights their importance in conservation efforts and biodiversity. The Oaks host more species than any other native tree: including 290 bryophytes (a collective name for a group of small, seedless, nonvascular land plants), 108 fungi, 1,178 invertebrates, 716 lichens, 31 mammals and 38 bird species.
The rain eased off somewhat during Christmas week when it was predominantly dry, dull, and cloudy; resulting in the woodland eventually starting to dry out after three weeks of rain. Early morning frosts returned and the day time temperature remained in single figures. Birdsong remained vibrant throughout. Curtain Crust Fungi continues to grow on the cut-up branches and tree trunks and Sulphur Tuft fungi is popping up in a few places. Grey Squirrels do not hibernate during the colder winter months and can be seen most days playing with each other amongst the trees and chattering away to each other.
As the month draws to a close the weather has turned decidedly colder with the morning temperature dropping into single figures with overnight frosts and some vibrant and colourful sunrises. The colder weather looks set to continue into the New Year.
All that remains now is for me to wish you a very Happy, and Healthy New Year. Take Care.
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